How HTW Berlin bridges the gap between aesthetics and circular thinking in the education of the next generation.

The textile and fashion industry has reached a critical turning point. As a highly interconnected global system, it is particularly vulnerable to climate change, geopolitical conflicts, and social shifts. At the same time, it faces increasing scrutiny: conventional production consumes massive amounts of resources and energy—only for approximately 80 percent of textiles to end up as waste. Consequently, "Earth Overshoot Day" is no longer an abstract concept for the industry; old certainties and business models are increasingly being called into question.

Leading universities are taking action: At HTW Berlin, for instance, aspiring fashion designers no longer just learn how to create garments. They learn how to repair a system from within—one that clothes us every day, yet suffers from overproduction and resource depletion. The focus is shifting radically: away from designing purely aesthetic products to serve for ourselves, towards thinking in terms of application contexts and cycles. While a technically perfect and well-executed design remains essential, it is no longer sufficient on its own. We are witnessing a paradigm shift that views fashion design as genuine problem-solving and designers as system architects. In practice, this means our students learn from the outset to look at the bigger picture, engage in interdisciplinary exchange, and consider the entire life cycle and circularity of a garment from the very first sketch.

A key element for us is the connection of innovation and tradition. The curriculum at HTW includes knitwear design—one of the most sustainable textile techniques—as well as resource-efficient pattern making and material science focused on biodegradable textiles. Furthermore, we utilize 3D simulations to reduce physical prototyping to an absolute minimum.

This knowledge is applied in practice-based projects, such as the collaboration with the e-learning platform Normina in the Master’s course "Knitwear Collection Development." Against the backdrop of the strict EU Ecodesign Regulation (ESPR), students collaboratively developed a knitwear collection that merges creative thinking with a deep understanding of product life cycles and regulatory requirements.

Projects like this provide students with practical proof that contemporary design must not only look good but must also offer viable solutions for sustainability instead of creating new problems. A conviction they will carry forward to help transform the industry.

Written by Thu Thao Haussmann

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